Monday, April 13,
2015 Serengeti National Park
A beautiful day of sunshine met us this morning as we walked
up to a fine breakfast in the Serengeti Serena Lodge.
We met Nixson at 8:30 to head out to another part of the Serengeti National Park. So down the rough, bumpy road we went to find a community of mongoose....around 30 or so.
They were standing up on their hind legs looking at us and running all around the area. Next we passed by elephant dung…and we watched two dikdiks….so dainty...a male and female.
two dikdiks
Nixson did not allow us out of the car in the wilderness very much...this was one of those times.
Wildebeest and zebra were curious of us...they would look and run the other way.
On we drove on the dusty road to see zebras, wildebeests and some little vervet monkeys. We visited the Serengeti Visitor Center and walked a nature path with information about Serengeti National Park.
We enjoyed watching the hylex (small groundhog like critters) run about the grounds posing on the rocks and in the trees.
The helix checking us out
On the way out of the center a turtle slowly walked across the road. Next we stopped at an acacia tree spotting a baby leopard. Uncomfortable, he kept adjusting his body to fit better on the limb.
Waiting for momma to bring a snack
Next we spotted our first cheetah just relaxing on the backside of a termite mound. He would turn to look at us occasionally, but he was more interested in spotting a meal out in the tall grass in front of him.
Peek-a boo....we see you Mr. Cheetha!
The rear of our hut...so unique to this part of the world.
Our swimming pool...who would have thought there would be one way out here!
We met Nixson at 8:30 to head out to another part of the Serengeti National Park. So down the rough, bumpy road we went to find a community of mongoose....around 30 or so.
They were standing up on their hind legs looking at us and running all around the area. Next we passed by elephant dung…and we watched two dikdiks….so dainty...a male and female.
On we drove on the dusty road to see zebras, wildebeests and some little vervet monkeys. We visited the Serengeti Visitor Center and walked a nature path with information about Serengeti National Park.
Lots of animal bones that we identified.
We enjoyed watching the hylex (small groundhog like critters) run about the grounds posing on the rocks and in the trees.
On the way out of the center a turtle slowly walked across the road. Next we stopped at an acacia tree spotting a baby leopard. Uncomfortable, he kept adjusting his body to fit better on the limb.
Next we spotted our first cheetah just relaxing on the backside of a termite mound. He would turn to look at us occasionally, but he was more interested in spotting a meal out in the tall grass in front of him.
We moseyed on for a few miles and spotted a second cheetah
just laying under a tree. He put on a show. He sat up. He stretched. He turned
around. He was so much fun to watch.
he knows he is pretty...
Heading out across the vast, flat high plain we spotted five elephants and
two babies….they were too far from the road to drive up to. We also spotted more zebras,
ostriches, topies and buffalos.
Very social, vibrant Zebras
As we headed north we drove through miles and miles of zebras leading the wildebeests in the great migration. It was very spectacular to watch them kick up their heels and run about. Then we drove through herds mixed with wildebeest, zebra and gazelle. On we motored for at least twenty miles in the middle of the great migration and as far as the eye could see.
We were told that the zebras have excellent sight so they lead the way on the great migration while the wildebeest have excellent smelling so they locate the freshest, greenest grasses where the rain has fallen most recently. They both work together to find their way to Kenya to live during the dry season. The gazelles and elands go along for the ride until they reach the river. Their short legs would not allow for a safe passage through the Mara River so they turn around and start to migrate back.
As we headed north we drove through miles and miles of zebras leading the wildebeests in the great migration. It was very spectacular to watch them kick up their heels and run about. Then we drove through herds mixed with wildebeest, zebra and gazelle. On we motored for at least twenty miles in the middle of the great migration and as far as the eye could see.
We were told that the zebras have excellent sight so they lead the way on the great migration while the wildebeest have excellent smelling so they locate the freshest, greenest grasses where the rain has fallen most recently. They both work together to find their way to Kenya to live during the dry season. The gazelles and elands go along for the ride until they reach the river. Their short legs would not allow for a safe passage through the Mara River so they turn around and start to migrate back.
We arrived at Naabi Hill, the exit of Sarengeti National Park and the
entrance to the Ngarongaro Crater. We had a nice box picnic lunch provided by the
lodge and sat up on the hill spotting the great migration moving by us on the
horizon.
Two days ago when we passed through here, there were no migrating animals on the horizon. In fact, there were no animals on the plains that we saw today. It was obvious that the masses of zebras, wildebeest, and gazelles would be passing into Ngorangora National Park very soon.
The "grand" entrance into Ngorongoro National Park....with an old rusty chain stretching across the road. We said good bye to one of the oldest ecostytems in the world and the largest concentration of plain animals....4 million and 500 species of birds.
This road leads to the Ngorongoro Crater.
Two days ago when we passed through here, there were no migrating animals on the horizon. In fact, there were no animals on the plains that we saw today. It was obvious that the masses of zebras, wildebeest, and gazelles would be passing into Ngorangora National Park very soon.
We passed by lots of herders in Ngorongoro National Park. These were young boys...15 or 16 years of age. The ones dressed in dark colors had come of age to be considered a man and had recently gone through circumcision.
A Maasia mother greeted us coming into the Oldupai Gorge entrance.
Giving her a dollar for her picture brought another Maasia friend over to want her picture taken too.
We journeyed on down the bumpy road to stop for a visit at
the Archeological Museum in Oldupai Gorge.
Here we looked around the museum and saw the plaster cast of the first footsteps of man 3.6 million years ago. Amazing! They have covered up other footsteps remains, hoping to preserve them, but students come here every summer to dig finding stone tools, stone weapons, animals bones, animal tracks and other significant relics to add to the museum's collection.
Maasia tribe children on our journey
We attended a short lecture about the site and enjoyed learning about some of the history of the area. Wow…the Germans first found bones here back in the early 1900’s that lead other archeologist to come in the 30’s to study the area. We were invited to come back to help dig. Wonder what they will find next!
An area showing the layers that were in the gorge earlier...could something special be buried in there?
Here we looked around the museum and saw the plaster cast of the first footsteps of man 3.6 million years ago. Amazing! They have covered up other footsteps remains, hoping to preserve them, but students come here every summer to dig finding stone tools, stone weapons, animals bones, animal tracks and other significant relics to add to the museum's collection.
We attended a short lecture about the site and enjoyed learning about some of the history of the area. Wow…the Germans first found bones here back in the early 1900’s that lead other archeologist to come in the 30’s to study the area. We were invited to come back to help dig. Wonder what they will find next!
Our last stop of the day was to visit a Massai Tribe village. Yes…we
were greeted by the chief, Lowasa Sambeke.
He invited us to watch the women dressed in their finest
outfits sing while the men to danced.
Women had mostly shaved heads to keep away the bugs and such
Tribesmen wear bright clothing to scare the wild animals away.
The
chief lead us into his village and invited us into his hut made of cow dung, sticks, and mud. Oh my…you can imagine the smell!
Tribe member chillin outside his home
The chief was very hospitable
The small round hut had two rustic
stick beds built off the dirt floor with leather cow skin coverings that served as the matress. He
invited us to sit down on the bed while he sat in the only wooden handmade chair in
the hut. There was a circle of stones on the floor in the center of the
room for cooking the meals; with one opening in the ceiling for smoke ventilation.
What did they eat? Meat (cow, goat, sheep), milk, oatmeal, and blood….ugh! No
fruits or vegetables. They do not grow gardens.
One hundred and twenty family
members lived here in this village including around 25 children. Larry and I sat on
the bed and listened to his story.
He was a young man of 28 with no wife. He
had hopes of having three wives but his brothers had to be suited first. His
father had ten wives. He spoke English but could not read or write.
Why was such a young man chief? He was capable of solving
problems for the tribe. Members of the tribe come to him for solutions to their
problems. He said he would have the job as long as the village was happy with
his solutions. He was mild mannered and soft spoken. It was understandable why
he we was so well liked. He explained
that everyone in the village had their jobs…home builders, shepherds or goat
herders, wood gathers, etc…we purchased some of the beaded objects that the women
made.
He invited us to see the kindergarten school that had been
established during the last year. 17
five and six year olds sat on two benches and sang and counted ….proud
to show what they had learned.
No pencils, paper or books were present. Just a chalk board and one child led the others in reciting the numbers and letters that were written in chalk. Their teacher had a baby wrapped on her back. The teacher spoke very little English. The children sang and had big smiles on their faces.
Tribal kids, teacher, chief and fellow traveller
We slipped some cash in a box, but these children needed so much more. This school was so needy. This tribe was so needy. But they were happy people and satisfied with their isolated way of life.
The leader wanted his picture with us
No pencils, paper or books were present. Just a chalk board and one child led the others in reciting the numbers and letters that were written in chalk. Their teacher had a baby wrapped on her back. The teacher spoke very little English. The children sang and had big smiles on their faces.
We slipped some cash in a box, but these children needed so much more. This school was so needy. This tribe was so needy. But they were happy people and satisfied with their isolated way of life.
The chief was thrilled to see the video of the tribe singing
and dancing that Larry took on the camera. It was obvious that he had never experienced
video media.
Display of the trinkets that the Maasia women make.
We headed back to the car with thoughts of how these people
existed in a whole different world than ours. They were content people and had no
idea of ways of life that existed beyond their small village community. Chief Sambeke said no one wanted to leave and even after
schooling, they always came back.
What a incredible day! We stopped on top of the Ngorongoro
Crater to take a long look at the Serengeti Valley below…so green and lush.
The fire felt toasty at 7,500 ft.
The reception folks met us at the door with warm wet wash clothes….we needed
them so badly after shaking the villagers hands and riding the dirt roads many hours. A warm cozy fire greeted us…it
was cold on top of the crater. Fresh squeezed pineapple juice revived our
energy as we were escorted to our rooms.
Covered walkway lead to our room
We couldn't wait to take
off our clothes that reeked of the village smells, shower and soak in the fresh mountain air before heading down to a delightful dinner of fresh
lamb and red snapper.
Larry caught me trying to get the internet up...way out here there is not much of a signal.
The lodge was an incredible structure. It had rustic stone
walls and caveman like paintings stenciled on the walls in every direction.
Spear weapons were hung on the walls....these are still in use today by the Massai. Ngorongoro is the only National Park with police living in the park...Why? This is the only park that has locals living in it...The Massai sometimes need intervention to keep from harming another Massai.
Glassed windows shared the gorgeous views of the valley of the Ngorongoro Crater and the sky reflected in the lake below.
Thick wooden chairs sat about to enjoy the crater below. A circular fireplace glowed.
Tall African curtains were drawn in the night to promote a feeling of warmth as the clouds moved into the valley.
Larry and I had one unbelievable day!
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