Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Iceberg Alley, Esperanza Station at Hope Bay, and Kinnes Cove, Antarctica

Iceberg Alley, Esperanza Station, and Kinnes Cove, Antarctica

On Friday, January 8, after a very rocky night, Larry went out to see Iceberg Alley at 5:00 AM. He found the sun high in the sky and these beauties. They are mammoths, but not large enough to be named. Scientist will only give names to icebergs that are ten miles long.




 
At 9:00AM we took the small nine man boat to the mainland of Esperanza Station where the Argentina Government had set up a military base/exploration center in 1951.
   Esperanza Station, Antarctica

It was a cool minus 2 when we left, but the sun was shining brightly and we were unbelievably warm with three/four layers, blue explorer's coats and the muck boots....just like toast. We also had a good layer of suntan lotion to block to intense rays. The exploration guides wore the white zinc lotion on their  faces because they would be out in the sunshine most of the day.
                                                                    Our tender boat driver

                                   The sunshine made for a good crossing to the mainland.
This base was established before the IAATO  and Antarctica Treaty was written declaring Antarctica belonging to no specific country and to be used for scientific inhabitants  only.

                                              The welcome committee, Adelie Penguin

Our small group of 30 was lucky to have the commander of the base to give us a tour of their museum, school, casino (community center), and chapel. He spoke Spanish and our exploration leader translated.  

Esperanza  commander and our guide/translator
Esperanza Museum
 
Display of the stages of a penguin
 
Two groups...one waiting for their tour and the other waiting for their ride back to the ship 
Visiting this base is an extremely rare occasion; only two or three ships come into this small port each year. The locals treated us royally with hot drinks and cookies. Penguins were in all directions and we were thoroughly entertained just watching them.
 
 
 
 
 
                                                 Gentoo Penguins (white by the eye is the clue)

Only 54 people live on this remote base for a year.  14 of that number are students, half elementary and half high school.

Esperanza School
 
The head master/high school teacher spoke while our guide translated during the school tour
 


With their houses and roofs tied down to the ground securely with thick cables, no one leaves their home when the high winds get to blowing. Antarctica is the windiest place on earth with record winds registering at 327 km h in July of 1972. Wow...I bet everything better be buttoned down with that kind of wind. No kidding....school is canceled due to high winds here.


Esperanza Chapel
 
 
Inside the casino....community room
 

Every grownup (wife and husband) living here has a job....safety, communications, mechanic, etc. Can you imagine making your grocery list for a year? There is person who does that, ordering the necessary supplies for a whole year.  Living here makes East Timor look like a piece of cake.
                                                      Lots of rocks and lots of penguins

This area known as Hope Bay was named in honor of three men from the Swedish South Polar Expedition of 1901-03.They built a rock house and survived in the area for a year. I am sure they were sitting around and doing a lot of hoping that they were going to be able to get back to civilization.  It had to be an amazing feat for them  to live off of penguin and seal meat for a year and use their blubber as insulated underwear.  What a story they have to tell!
                                                                  Rock House

Currently it is summer in January, the daylight is nonstop, but during the winter it is totally dark for 24 hours for many weeks. The penguins migrate to Antarctica every December to lay their eggs and hatch little penguins. They all leave by March to toastier temps.




It was amazing how smoothly getting two hundred people dressed in life jackets and all their other warm gear, shuttled to and from the island in groups of eight….the ninth passenger was the driver… The Fram Staff really knew how to keep things moving with very little wait time.

After returning to the boat, we got out of all that cold weather clothing and had lunch. We had a  short amount of free time and then we put on our three/four layers of clothing, blue exploration coats, and muck  boots to get on another tender boat at 4:30 PM  for a new outing to Kinnes Cove. Taking the little boat to shore, we disembarked into the water to come ashore. Those muck boots really work....I had the driest and warmest feet on every excursion.


We climbed to the top of this huge mountain of snow and ice…slipping and sliding all along the way...it was a bit dodgy getting through some of the icy areas, but we made it.

What a gorgeous day! See the penguins greeting us as you get off the tender boat.
 
These little critters will walk right up to you if you sit down for a while.
 
So cool!!!!!!


 Penguin colonies were everywhere…swimming, hopping, waddling, and sliding. They were adorable and so much fun to watch. We actually sat right down in the snow and were thoroughly entertained watching their comical moves.
 
Walking up hill warms you up real fast...hence no hat or gloves.
 
Sweet....we spotted these two little ones under their mama!
 

After making it to the top, we were able to see the incredible view of the cove with the ship sitting below and icebergs floating all about.  The sunshiny day made for the best weather that we have had during the whole trip so far.

                        Yes, that is our ship, the Fram...isn't it tiny looking? The vastness of the area makes our ship look so very small.


During the evening we enjoyed cruising amongst the icebergs...WHAT A SHOW!

 


Elephant Island, Anarctica

Elephant Island, Antarctica    Thursday afternoon, January 7, 2016  


The captain made our first stop at Point Wild on Elephant Island. We did not disembark the ship, just floated along beside the island taking in the first views of this magnificent continent.
                                                                            Elephant Island
This is the infamous area where Ernest Shackleton in 1914 brought his ship to explore Antarctica. The ship became frozen into the ice and the group was unable to get back out to sea. Shackleton took 4 men in a row boat taking twenty days to reach the island of Georgia in an attempt to get another ship to come back to Cape Bloody Wild (renamed by the marooned crew).

Here he attempted to reach the stranded crew four times. On the fourth try, Shackleton finally made it back to Elephant’s Island four and a half months later using a Chilean Navy Ship, Yelcho, and rescued his total crew of 22 men who had survived on seal and penguin stew. We watched the actual footage (a silent film) of this incredible journey one evening. It was truly a miracle that these men survived.

                                                        What a cold looking spot!

 

Journey to Antarctica, 2016

Two full days in the Drake Passage    Tuesday, January 4- January 6, 2016

                                    Our home sweet home for two weeks, Hurtigruten, Fram


We boarded the ship at 4:30 PM with no waiting. Oh so nice! After checking and meeting with the ship doctor to hand over our personal doctor's approved physical we went up to our cabin on the sixth floor. Our bags were waiting for us in our room 655 at the very back of the ship.

At 5:30PM we had the necessary safety drill….brrrr it was cold outside on deck 5 (portside at our muster station) as the captain and his crew demonstrated to us how to put on this thermal one piece suit just in case we needed to abandon the ship in one of three life boats…don’t want to think about that!
It is always comforting to see all the awards the ship has on display...The Fram had three walls of these.

Today had been a big adventurous day….meeting new travelers….flying into Ushuaia… walking the town for three hours…getting acquainted with our new ship, the Fram. A cold, blustery, rainy, snowy evening took us out of the Ushuaia port….so different from the last time that we had sailed out of Bengal Bay with sun and snow capped peaks. Larry and I hunkered down after a buffet dinner so ready for bed. A couple of minutes of CNN News and we were out like a light.


The next two days were spent going to lectures, working out in the gym, reading, and talking with the lively passengers. These folks, a rare group of world travelers, were celebrating birthdays, honeymoons, anniversaries or just like us, trying to achieve that goal of being on the last of seven continents. 
An outside Jacuzzi on each side of the ship

 
The gym with a ping pong table...lots of fun with the ship rocking and rolling.
 
 

Observations Deck...7th floor












                                                                            Dining Room
This was the only dining hall. All 200 guest ate here  with the captain in two seatings, 6:00 and 8:00 for dinner. This was not a luxury liner.

We also picked up our Antarctic jackets and muck boots that would be worn ashore and learned about the process of boarding the nine-man boat that took us to land. Our belongings that would go ashore had to be vacuumed and our boots had to be sterilized each time we went ashore…the environment is highly protected.  These first two days with rocking and rolling seas were very busy.

Painting of Antarctica


                              Lots of Artic and Antarctic Art were displayed around the Fram
 
 

 


Past Explorers of the North and South Poles

It was exciting to spot the first icebergs on the second day at sea.
 
 
It was a pleasure to leave the Drake Passage and all the rolling seas. We were ready to begin seeing  the Antarctica Peninsula .  
 
 

 

Monday, January 18, 2016

Ushuaia, Argentina

Ushuaia, Argentina    January 4, 2016

We arrived in Ushuaia, Argentina at 11:00 AM. We boarded a bus at the airport to take the city tour, since we had visited Tierra del Fuego National Park two years ago. Larry and I enjoyed seeing some of the city sights that we had not taken in the last time.
Love seeing that penguin incorporated in the sign.

We took a quick tour of the old airport with some relics on display.
 
Ushuaia from the old airport peninsula
 
Snow capped mountains....even in the summer.
 
 
We happened upon our tour guide while walking through the town who was going into the local restaurant for a bite….we followed him in and took his suggestion of what to order….a sandwich that had chicken, ham, and salad (what they call lettuce and tomato) on a fresh French bread…It was way too much food for one person but just perfect for Larry and I to share. We enjoyed a lively conversation with this international traveler who summered here in Ushuaia and wintered in Holland. He owned a bed and breakfast and had quite a gift for gab in four languages….Dutch, German, English and Spanish. He kept us thoroughly entertained. 

 
 
 


Walking along the business street we noticed that most of the shops were closed 1:00-3:00 daily….I guess the Hispanic tradition of taking an afternoon siesta had reached the most southern point of South America.
 
After a good hike through the town, we headed back to meet the bus at 4:00pm. It was spitting rain and snow so the bus looked mighty fine. After making good friends with our guide, he made sure that our bus was the first one to pull into the port to unload. We walked right off the bus and up the gangplank, being one of the first passengers to enter the ship….That was so nice!
                                                                     Adios Ushuaia!

 

Clearwater to Buenos Aires, Argentina...the start of our Antarctica Trip, 2016


Clearwater Beach to Miami to Buenos Aires, Argentina       January 1, 2016-January 4, 2015

After dancing the night away New Year’s Eve with friends Steve and Rose…at least till midnight….Larry and I drove a rented car to Miami on New Year’s Day and checked into a local hotel for a quick night’s nap….yes, up at 4:30AM to meet the hotel van for a 5:00AM ride to Miami Airport. Checking in at 5:30AM at Miami Airport, we found that the flight was delayed from 8:30 to 10:45…$#&*JIMINY CRICKETS#%*!....How we could have used those two hours  for more sleep.
 

The nine hour flight on Aerolinas Argentina was nonstop getting us to Buenos Aires at 9:45pm. After gathering luggage and going through customs with about a million other arriving Argentenians , we waited an hour for a taxi to take us on a 30 minute ride to Hotel  Emperador arriving about 12:30 am. This chicky who usually is in bed by 10:00 each night was in overdrive….


 

 
 
 
 
 
 
                                                                                                         This place looked mighty fine!!!!!
Buenos Aires is known as the Paris of South America. The next two days were spent walking around Recoleta, the “Frenchiest” quarter of Buenos Aires. Lots of upscale shops and restaurants line the streets.
        Modern sky scrapers stood beside older European buildings with the classic balconies.
                                                      Argentinians have a  good sense of humor!
We especially enjoyed a lively chat with an equestrian shop owner who had some exquisite horsey items. We stopped for a water break in the Mercedes Restaurant. Everything is wide open with very little air conditioning. Although the temps were a toasty 88 degrees, there was a nice breeze that would cool you down on occasion.
Parks were everywhere….allowing citizens from the high rises opportunities to enjoy the tall green sycamore trees. Fig trees flourish here….They were the coolest coverings for the walkway.
                                                        Canopy of fig trees, never seen them this big! 
We also enjoyed a restaurant that cooked kid…as in Billy goat… the traditional way….staked up next to hot coals.

                                                      Traditional Argentina Barbecue

After returning from a midday hike, Larry said,” I got some sun”. Although we felt we had been in the shade for most of our midday cloud covered walk, his red neck and head top showed that the sun is quite strong in this part of the world….the hole in the ozone layer is only getting bigger allowing the stronger rays of sun to touch our tender skin.
                                       Police were spotted often...keeping the area very safe.
Can you imagine taking this many dogs on a walk?
 
 
A well known Argentinian architect built this flower to open and close with the solar power of the sun.
 

 
Law University, closed for summer break.
Art was everywhere.
Reminded us the dolphins in Clearwater and the Hokie birds in Blacksburg.
 

                                                                                                               Loved this unusual tree!
                    Blooming flowers were plentiful.   
                  
Our trip to Antarctica began on Tuesday, January 4, 2016 with a 5:00AM call to meet our group of 200 other adventurous souls  in the lobby for breakfast….coffee, tea, oj, croissants, pastries, apples, and bananas. We were whisked away on three buses for a 15 minute ride to the domestic airport where we boarded Lan Airline at 7:00 AM  for a 3 and a half hour flight into Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world.  Here the adventure toward Antarctica truly begins.